The oil analysis report we received from our lab showed elevated levels of sodium and potassium in our engine oil. You'll need the wand and cylinder adapter.Root Causes of Sodium and Potassium in Engine Oil Just quickly vac it out and and attach the adapters and blast away.Īgain, ECS tuning has them in stock. If it stays pooled then you know it is sealed. You can always spay some Seafoam or brake cleaner in there and ensure that the valve is sealed by watching to see if it leaks down into the cylinder. You will feel the valves close by feeling more tension on the ratchet when the valves close, as you turn the ratchet. Once you have cleared some room, then you need to just put a ratchet on the crank bolt. It is sort of tricky to put the fan back in (FYI). You will need to take the fan out, which is one bolt and an electrical connection. It is really easy to ensure the valves are closed. From what ive read the biggest danger is getting stuff inside the engine during cleaning. I will most likely buy the walnut blasting stuff.

For a while this spring, they were sort of hard to come by. Of course if you have an extra $200.00 or so to blow, you could get the adapters for a walnut blasting assuming you had some sand blasting equipment that also uses media. They will help speed up the process of cleaning the cylinder portion of the intake valve. You might get a few brass brushes that can be connected to a tork gun (drill). Plenty of DIY's old school method (using a gun cleaning kit and 2 1/2 bottles of seafoam intake cleaner). ' rel='nofollow' target='_blank'> There is a good link to learn more about how ur engine works. U can however refer to coolant cooled turbos as water cooled but idk why he had to shoot u down on a term lol The only time a car would have 'water' cooling anything would be in an air to water intercooler setup (which you do not have) and that would be cooling the air not the turbos I hate people that bash kids for trying to learn on here. That is a very likely problem i might have, considering im at 118k miles with stock turbos, and 18k miles of that has been on a JB4 running 14.5 PSIĭont feel bad bro hes actually the one who should research. Thanks for the info on being water cooled as well. I dont make a lot of money as anyone in the military knows so i have to fix this myself.Īnd this is kind of what the forums are for, getting help with technical and mechanical issues. I work 14 hours a day in the military, And have very little free time, So i am trying to utilize these forums to help me. If you want to stick to useful tips for this issue, maybe spend some time on RealOEM studying diagrams to see how everything under your hood is currently connected and functioning. If you become a member at Amsoil, you will get 25% off your order. Of course, you will need to change the oil and coolant to really see if changing the the oil filter housing gasket did the trick.

The intake valve gaskets and throttle body gasket are not that expensive. The infamous third bolt will not come out unless you take out the intake valve cover. When you change out the oil filter housing gasket, you may as well scrub out the intake valves while your in there. And if i had a blown head gasket, I would most likely have coolant in the oil as well and i dont Ive just read a lot about people saying it causes oil in coolant, and i remember the dealership saying they thought mine was leaking. However, this gasket has a set of tell tales on the exterior not typically the interior. I think starting with the oil filter housing gasket is a good start. BMW's in general are not known for it, but the worst case situation would be a blown head gasket.

Oil in coolant diesel engine